Some folk manage to see things quite clearly, either naturally or with the help of laser treatment. Others of us now and again perceive the need for new glasses of one sort or another. So how do you see the wine in your life?
Have you perhaps long decided on what you like and always stick to it? Or are you one of those that realize that they may well be missing something and decide to update their view of things and try out some new ones? Even those with laser vision may remain very narrowly focused and remain unaware of new developments outside the periphery of their vision, out on the wider horizon.
At the start of a New Year, and a leap one at that, it’s a good time to take a glance around and consider what else is about. After all, it’s in a leap year that traditionaly the boot is on the other foot, so to speak, in making proposals.
There are so many areas at which it is worth taking a further look, and the shelves of a good local wine shop are a good place to start. To begin with, the Spanish wine authorities are becoming very nifty at creating ‘new’ wine areas. These areas will always have been producing wine of some sort or another. However there is a distinct tendency to slice up some of the original wine denominations and call these slices by a new name. For example, what is now Manchuela was beforehand part of La Mancha and so on. The reasons for this slicing and dicing is to recognize, as has always been the case, that this particular area produces wines of a distinctive nature from certain designated grape varieties, whether indigenous and or foreign, conforming to certain specified norms of yield and quality. A group of wine makers in that area may have been able to justify their claim to the relevant authorities. The first thing may be to try out a bottle of one of these recently designated (and new to you) areas to see if you agree!
Throughout Spain, but certainly within areas like Penedès and La Rioja, new wineries and thus new labels continue to emerge. They are likely to have the most modern winemaking equipment, supplemented by a real need to make their mark in a highly competitive market. So why not try a wine with a new name from what may already be a well-known area? You may find it surprising what modern wine chefs can concoct from their local ingredients.
Are you colour prejudiced or colour blind? While I can understand that some folk might be allergic to pigments, as say others are to gluten or shellfish, the outright statement of a dislike of either red, white or rosado wine, solely on grounds of colour, does seem to be a purely vindictive opinion. Have you tried recently a really good example of a style that you have hitherto avoided like the plague? Ask a friend to help by pouring you a glass of something good (in their opinion), without pre-warning and explanation, and to do it blind. If your prejudice is not mollified, you will have not lost anything, but you may yet find yourself rethinking…. ambience, temperature and quality can contribute enormously to perhaps changing attitudes.
As help along this path, dare yourself to try the Petit Verdot from Pago del Vicario. It is classified as a vino de tierra from Castilla La Mancha. But this wine from this property, nearish to Ciudad Real, is both delicious and unusual. For my part, I shall endeavour to be following this general advice during the coming year. No doubt I shall be unhappy, from time to time, in seeing with what gets into my glasses. But for the most part, as has been my experience of many years here, I shall enjoy looking about and taking a leap into the unknown. I realize this may not have the thrill of a bungy jump, but then, it’s most unlikely to make your eyes pop. You only need go so far and just take a little look, after all. Cheers and may you enjoy, whatever you resolve for the year ahead.
Note
Try calling A Catarlo Todo in Teulada, for that Petit Verdot experience.
The season of good cheer is with us again. While children (especially those from northern countries) plan to put out a stocking in the hope and expectation of some surprising gifts, older generations know that it is time to consider how much stocking up they should plan for family and friends who may well be with them in larger doses then usual. Then there are those who will travel north to be with those that may descend on them here in the summer months.
In either case, a well-chosen bottle or two may well feature as a gift option. For those traveling by air, the chance to buy some wine or spirits in the airport shop while waiting for a flight is an easy way to top up on the gift front. For those who staying on here or maybe away by car, then perhaps more than just the odd bottle or so can be contemplated.
If ever there was a time to go a bit beyond the habitual tipple, this must surely be it. To have it all wrapped up for you, the larger wine shops will have a bewildering array of special packages. Unless you know the recipient’s taste in wine pretty well, then price will be the over-riding factor in any choice of wooden or leather bound treasure chest or whatever such packaging. For someone special, a double or magnum bottle is another way to demonstrate the strength of your feelings or appreciation.
Most of us, though, tend to be thinking what we would like to be drinking, and then mulling over whether family and guests are up to distinguishing one’s selection of offerings from their regular liquid fare. If any in doubt, perhaps best to save those better bottles to treat oneself once the visitors have gone on their way.
In our younger days, we may recall sherry and port featuring at seasonal festivities. If tinsel in the Spanish sunshine fails to recall earlier times, then serving some sherry or port may well help. I bought a bottle of port recently and a glass or so has certainly re-stimulated my taste buds.
However, here in Spain, serving cava has to be the quickest and best value way to help relaxation and stimulate conversation. There are so many from which to choose, but even the plonkiest can be disguised with blackcurrant or cranberry juice, not forgetting the orange juice for Bucks’ Fizz.
As for washing down generous portions of roasted bird or other meats, much depends on how strongly you wish your choice of wine to feature. To play safe, select a Rioja as far up the price ladder as you may wish to climb, or look for Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Tempranillo on the label of wines from Navarra, Penedès and Somontano. For white wines, I shall rely heavily on Rueda Verdejo wines and for rather more outlay on the Albariño and Godello variety wines from Galicia.
If you feel so much part of the Costa Blanca scene that you would like to support some small but quality local growers, then think about a personalized label from Simón de Monfort. The wines are made in Alicante province, but this service is provided from Jávea.
Otherwise, take a trip to Murla in the Jalon valley to visit Peter Arnold and buy direct from his home winery. Now in his fifth year since moving from South Africa, his 2007 white and rosado should be bottled by now. I tried his first effort at a local Sauvignon Blanc this September, while it was still settling in tank. It was already then very well perfumed but at that cloudy stage still with hints of yeast. This will be selling at a shade over €4 per bottle, along with his 2007 rosado blended from Cabernet Sauvignon and Garnacha. That’s where I intend to do some stocking up, but that will not prevent my browsing elsewhere. Don’t overdo it, but enjoy!
Notes: Simón de Monfort Wines 96 579 4395; Peter Arnold 660 871 169
This question arises in many aspects of life in general, but do we at any time think to stop to consider it in relation to the wine we drink? If we do stop to think, do we then review our approach to wine and the pleasures from it that we derive?
Wine for one person may simply be a beverage, on a par with mashed potato or chips as a standard item to go with all. If that fits you, perhaps best to turn the page. On the other hand, if you think it may just be time for that rethink, stay a while longer.
There is no doubt that in the last few decades, wine has become much more of (almost) everyday life for those of us who come from non wine-producing countries. Conversely, in countries like Spain and France, average consumption of wine per person has fallen. One of the attractions of Spain, for those coming from further North, has been the comparatively lower cost of living, certainly much lower if wine is within that calculation. So why increase regular costs if one can buy perfectly acceptable wines at €1.50 or less? Let me admit right away that I really enjoy the rosado and red wines of the standard range from the Monte Ducay, widely available at that price, coming from the Cariñena area.
But here paths can diverge. Some are content to shop around in Aldi and Lidl for other such bargains, while others of us are prepared to invest a little more to find out if we can both perceive and appreciate the difference. How often, and by how much extra are the next big issues, if you are in this more speculative group? I suppose that some of us, for whatever reasons, are more inquisitive than others, and have the resources to indulge to some extent in this form of speculation. Certainly the choice in Spain is largely, though not exclusively, limited to wine made in this country. That is why, on my infrequent visits to the UK, I make every effort to try wines from other countries, in an entirely subjective look at how well I feel that Spanish wines, and their value for money, compare, from my regular experience, with what those easily found for those normally resident in the UK. On a recent visit, I tried a range of Sauvignon Blanc wines, concluding that for me the New Zealanders really have found the way to extract the maximum potential from this variety: but at price. For those who may fancy a local comparison, then look for the Marques de Riscal or Mantel Sauvignon Blanc from Rueda, or perhaps the Clos Mont Blanc from Conca de Barbera. The Fransola fromTorres in Penedès does have a touch of Parellada in the blend, but it is 90% Sauvignon Blanc, and fruity and smoky tasty too.
For those who hanker after French tastes in wine, thinking of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in particular, then Spanish wines do offer excellent tastes and value for money. Wines from Navarra and Somontano compete favourably, and geographically. Going further up the price scale, to around the €20 level, perhaps try a wine from the single vineyards of the Dominio de Valdepusa (Marques de Griñon). Dehesa de Carrizal is the latest star in the slowly evolving Vinos de Pago constellation, with wines that compete seriously with some Chateau bottled wines from Bordeaux.
How much further does one wish to go? The latest wine craze, and not just here in Spain, is to make small amounts of wine from carefully selected individual very old vines and then even to select the grape bunches from these. Here referred to as vinos de autor, such hand picked beauties come at a price. These mainly Tempranillo wines are really meant to be drunk by themselves, rather than with food. Are they worth it? It is very hard to put a price on exclusivity and rarity. If prices around €100 and even more seem ludicrous, in your view, there are rare chances to at least take a sip, providing one noses around to sniff out an opportunity. And then there are birthdays and special occasions. If some one says of your really indulgent gift, “ You shouldn’t have!” then that person (and maybe possibly even yourself) may just find that for once you are glad you went that far.
SOMONTANO IS A WINE AREA AT THE TOP OF SPAIN, NESTLING IN THE FOOTHILLS OF THE PYRENEES. ITS WINES ARE RAPIDLY GROWING IN REPUTATION, FOR THEIR CONSISTENT QUALITY AND VALUE ARE BECOMING AMONG THE BEST TO BE FOUND HERE.
Driving due north from Valencia, Zaragossa is on your left and then come to the small town of Barbastro. On a clear day the snowy peaks of the mountains can be seen ahead, straddling the border with France. The snowfall and rainfall drains south to the river Ebro, in tributaries that have carved deeply into the landscape. Barbastro is in the province of Huesca, sandwiched between La Rioja to the west and the wine areas of Costers de Segre and Penedès to the east, and Barbastro is the hub of the Somontano wine area.
Wine has been made in this area since roman times, and then later by the many flourishing monasteries. However the story of modern Somontano wines is far more recent. A little over ten years ago there were only four bodegas bottling wines. Now there are 25 and that number may yet grow further. Wine production has grown tenfold in the same period.
The reason for this remarkable expansion has been the dedication from the outset to make truly quality wines at affordable prices, with a particular emphasis on the foreign grape varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Chardonnay, with the indigenous Tempranillo, Moristel, Garnacha Tinta and Parraleta reds having to take minor supporting roles.
Good wines had been made for selling in bulk for many years. However, it has been the rapid recognition that the foreign grape varieties adapt so well to the local soils and climate that has provided the impetus on which many young enterprising wineries have been founded. The original wine co-operative was put onto a commercial business at the outset as Bodegas Pirineos, being closely followed by the pioneering Viñas del Vero. In turn founders that had made their fortunes in Madrid set Enate up just 13 years ago. They wisely brought in a young team and had the design and art of making good wine very much in mind from the very outset. This attention to detail throughout the wine making process and the presentation of the wine to consumers is evident in many of the bodegas.
The local regulatory body (Consejo Regulador) reflects this approach in reformed buildings that are easily accessible on the edge of town. The wine consumer at the forefront of their facilities, El Espacio del Vino, which opened last year. There is a wine shop featuring a wide selection of the wines in the area, a purpose built audio visual room with surround sound and vision, featuring an amusing yet informative introduction to the area, together with rooms for organized tastings that are tailored to different levels of interest. All run by staff that are eager to demonstrate the wines and bodegas within their scope. Yes, there is also a restaurant within the complex.
The soil structure and climate allow for the minimal use of pesticide and weed killer in the vineyards, making for a suitably environmentally friendly processes. Add to this innovative bodega designs, and there is something truly exciting for the architect and engineer as well as to those who are there intending solely to polish their palates and to enjoy the scenery.
A link with the roman past and modern Somontano can be found at Bodegas Estada. Some of its partners came from the local town of Estada, its name derived from a roman stadium and a remarkable mosaic that was unearthed featuring gladiators. The mosaic is now preserved in the Fine Arts Museum in Zaragossa, but a portion is reproduced for the wine labels and cartons of this bodega. Miguel Angel Noguero Barón, the inspiration behind this new enterprise opened in 2005, has been one of the founding fathers of Somontano. Like his Italian former namesake, Miguel Angel has an eye for the big picture as well as small detail. The bodega is well hidden off the main road, is built into the hillside and will blend totally into the landscape in the near future. Nonetheless the design allows natural daylight where needed, reflecting off a striking blue painted floor. The Estada wines are already winning accolades. Like the gladiators of old, they need to be really good to survive in this highly competitive environment, but initial recognition has already been gained. So head for the top when you can and enjoy the spectacle of Somontano. It is well worth it.
Contacts:- Espacio del Vino 974 313 031: Viñas del Vero 302 216: Bodega Pirineos 974 311 289: Estada 628 30 823: for Mosaico showing in Calpe on 11th September 629 388 159
How does one remember a name of a person, place, book or wine? It is particularly tricky if you do not come upon that name regularly, nor have friends or other sources to readily consult. Even logging onto the Internet may not help that much. Try a search for Cabernet Sauvignon, and you are confronted with trying to select from over two and a half million references. So naming a wine just by its grape variety may not help folk remember your particular Cabernet Sauvignon, but for those at least for those that know the type, they will know roughly what to expect.
This dilemma has concerned wine maker/oenologist Daniel Belda together with his school chum and now commercial partner Vicente Montfort. The Bodega is called J. Belda, near the small town of Fontanars dels Alforins, some 10km east of the main Villena to Almansa main road
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Both families have a grape growing tradition, but it was Daniel who studied oenology and was sent off to Penedès and Cariñena as well as around France to learn more about wine making. He returned to persuade his father to plant foreign grape varieties and to bottle these themselves. Vicent also studied oenology, but is involved in other parts of his family businesses.
From humble beginnings in the early 90’s, there are now 160 hectares of vines, planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Shiraz, as well as Tempranillo, the local Monastrell (the latter being the principle variety grown in the adjacent Almansa, Yecla and Jumilla wine areas), along with whites Chardonnay and local Verdil. This last is an indigenous Valencian grape that was on the point of being lost forever, but Belda have some 14 hectares out of only 60 known to exist. The Belda vineyards are at an altitude of some 600 metres, and now boast a cheese wedge shaped bodega that lies mostly underground.
Initially the wines were labeled Daniel Belda with just the name of the grape variety. On the newest wines the bodega is featured, while on aged wines another eight design layouts feature variously.
But partner Vicente thought that he should now add his own input, so some of these wines can be bought labelled as Simon de Montfort wines. Now there’s a name that the historians among us may recall, which is why Vicente chose it. The father of the British Parliament is someone to conjure up past fame.
However, while that name may appeal more to British consumers, here in Spain Simon’s uncle of the same name is apparently recalled as something of a bloody tyrant. So that name is not really being broadcast locally.
But that’s where their local marketing does start to get truly interesting for consumers. The wines, as either Daniel Belda or Simon de Montfort rarely appear on shop shelves. They are mostly sold hereabouts either direct to restaurants or delivered to consumers at home. This method is aimed at trying to reduce the number of middlemen and thus to keep the price within more than acceptable bounds.
Whether it is Daniel Belda or Simon de Montfort that you remember, the best thing to do is to make note of the telephone number or website as listed below. There is no minimum quantity for a delivery free of charge to your home. Furthermore, details can be agreed in English with Vicente. If you need some personalized packs to promote a business or corporate event, that can also be negotiated. Prices per bottle start from as little as €1.95 for the light fruity easy drinking Ponsalet (Monastrell) and up to €9.95 for the new top of the range Pinot Noir. You may find more accessible in both senses the Cabernet Sauvignon Crianza 2002 for just €2.95. Aged in casks for 11 months, this is a soft, rounded quality wine is for the meatier end of summer barbecue offerings. Whether you have this one as Daniel Belda or as Simon de Montfort, no matter, just call 96 579 4395 or send an e-mail to montfort@ctv.es. With either one or the other, you will be on your way into local wine names to remember, while for a very competitively priced mixed dozen, you could end up winning the name game, set and match.