Jose the driver, opening the boot
from Rod Anderton
ALARCON AND ABOUT
Wine Tasting Tour
At the confluence of the rivers Júcar and Cabriel we reached Cofrentes with its Moorish castle, four kilometres further on the coach crept down a narrow winding track to join the Ruta Fluvial cruise boat on a navigable reservoir fed by the river Júcar. Inaugurated in 1983, the reservoir is fed by a damn on the mountain above. The water deepens from 10 to 75 meters in places and is surrounded with truly stunning mountain scenery and cliffs reaching to 400 metres. This beautiful reservoir is considered to be the best black bass fishing in the whole of Spain and wild boar and mountain goats live by the shore.
Looking like the remains of a much older building, we saw ruins of an early 20C cement factory. There used to be a bridge spanning the river there, but now the water has climbed much higher and the remaining stones were lapped by our wake as we passed.
This delightful hour and a half excursion into unspoilt natural beauty was arranged by the hosts at our first bodega, La Finca Hoya de Cadenas, the largest wine producer in the Community of Valencia that exports to 85 countries. The Estate is an eco-paradise just 100 Km from the city of Valencia with over 200 hectares of the finest local and international vine varieties situated on the slopes of the Sierra de la Bicuerca. We were lucky to catch their comwine harvester in action collecting the grapes.
They have a vast modern bodega, but the original Finca reaching back into the 17C is a delight.
Refreshed by the wine tasting we set off for our hotel in the small medieval town of Alarcón in the Province of Cuenca, the first sight of which is its imposing castle looking down the gorge of the river Júcar. There was a Roman fortification here until the Moors built another impressive stronghold and two lookout towers to scan the valley. Strategically important, the castle was taken by the Christians in 1158 after a year long siege. We made our way on foot through the narrow streets to the hotel sounding like a passing train with our suitcase wheels clattering over the cobbles.
Next day we visited the small Bodega Casa Gualda inaugurated in 1958. The wine tasting took place in the original fermenting room that was built in Moorish style to be cool in summer and warm in winter. Here the grapes were pressed manually and the juice ran into a gravity feed system. Care had to be taken when entering this area as a large amount of CO2 gas was given off in the fermentation process, anyone going inside wore a harness so that they could be pulled out if overcome!
The Casa Gualda vineyards lie on a plain 750 meters above sea level in clay soil covered with pebbles from the riverbed.
Our next port of call was the Vitus Natura Bodega near Quintanar del Rey producing organic wine. The vines were planted in 2002 and the first vintage produced in 2005. At this tasting we were served a delightful tapas lunch in the modern finca with gorgeous views over rows of vines into the distance.
On our way back to Valencia we visited Pago de Tharsys whose vineyard is planted on a 650m plateau of Requena. A small family wine cellar since the beginning of 20C, it was built over an older winery dating from 1805. The original cellar with its thick stone walls remains and is used to age the wines. In their quest for quality they have begun a ‘night harvest’ because they believe lower temperatures result in a more complex, fruity and elegant wine that lasts longer in the bottle.
Tharsys’ major production is Cava and we tasted their Brut Nature that had every last trace of sugar fermented out. We were interested to see how the remains of the yeast from the second fermentation is gathered at the neck of the bottle onto a plastic stopper at low temperature. The metal cap and stopper with the yeast deposit is removed and replaced with cork and wire. We learned that tiny bubbles and the sound of a gentle fizz indicate a Cava of quality.
All the bodegas we visited made use of every scrap of the harvest. Here we see a grape heap after pressing. The remains are used for various processes including grape seed oil, industrial alcohol, animal feed and compost. At Pago de Tharsys they distil part of the remains of their grapes for liqueur.
This thoroughly enjoyable trip was rounded off with a superb lunch at Venta L’Home in Siete Aguas.
Report by Christine Felton
Following are a few photos contributed by Rod Anderton
The boat trip along the Rio Jucar - wine not yet in sight!
Outside the family owned very interesting 'Bio and Eco' wine Bodega.
getting ready to distribute extra wine for our final treat
Gaby, on behalf of the group, presenting Tim with a thank you present
for his organisation of the trip.
Forty two participants departed punctually from Rafalet Car Park in Javea and received booklets with detailed itinerary, prepared by organisers Gaby and Margaret Ferenczy, Tim and Sandy Fawle. Their two previous visits and research in the Montsant region was to prove invaluable throughout our visit.
After four and a half hours with two brief stops we arrived at Hostal Sport, a newly refurbished, roomy and comfortable hotel in the centre of Falset, which was to be our base for the three nights.
A wash and change, then we were off to the first bodega visit. This was only a five minute walk to Agricola Falset-Marca, where we met with an excellent, interesting and knowledgeable English born guide, Rachel, outside the building designed by Cesar Martinell, a student of Gaudi. Rachel was to be our companion and guide with wonderful local knowledge most days of our stay.
This co-operative is a merger of two, Falset and nearby Marca. Carthusian monks in the 12th century introduced the methods which are still respected today. Now, some 90 years after foundation, their wines have developed with Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot being introduced with the traditional Grenache and the Carignan from Carinena.
The co-operative building
We tasted a rosado, reasonably priced at 5.40 euros followed by a blanco (the same price) and tinto – The favourite buys were rosado and tinto, although some also bought the Vermut at 6 euros. We thought these wines under the Etim label were generally good value wines. Each wine was recognised in the Penin Guide 2009 The buying soon started and was to continue with every bodega visit.
In the evening the group was welcomed by Gerard Mestres, Conseil Regulador Montsant DO – who gave us a short talk about the history of the D.O. and its present and future development– only in existence since 2001.
Gerard at the reception in the Hotel
Gaby and Tim wlecomed us with an aperitive prior to a very good dinner at the hotel, where we toasted Annie and Jean Pierre as it was their wedding anniversary.
Annie and Jean Pierre toasted for their Anniversary
Day two post breakfast started with an enthusiastic talk and tasting from Celler Laurona, only a few minutes from base by coach. The name derives from the only wine of distinction the Romans named near Tarragona. Laurona was founded ten years ago by Christopher Cannan of ‘Europvin’ fame and Rene Barbier who advised on best practice.
Tim Fawle, and our guide and oenologist Fernando Zamora
Tim Fawle, attentive members and our guide and oenologist Fernando Zamora
We learned the vines are mostly between 60 and 80years old. Although only 11a.m.in the morning, somehow the group managed to sample and enjoy the Laurona wines which we were able to buy at special discount prices.
Half an hour drive brought us to Celler Orcella in La Figuera, a small hilltop village. Daniel Sarmiento from Chateauneuf du Pape who was a director of a prestigious haute couture business, left in 2000 to set up a bodega in Montsant, settling in La Figuera, with his partner Elena, buying land, and together they started the Orcella range of wines, involving letting the co-operative building (the only one large enough locally) and involving the few families who lived in La Figuera. Around 500 metres in height the vineyards are placed on the steep slopes and protected by pines and holm oaks from the cold northern winds.
Daniel told us his background helped him to create wines with sensuality. He communicated his enthusiasm and passion for his fruity wines. The visit was enjoyed, the wines savoured, and our driver once again loaded the bought cases on the coach.
Daniel at the centre of the group
Azra and David relaxing and tasting
The group repaired to the Fonda Restaurant in the village and had an excellent pre booked meal (with wine) of local specialities, wonderfully served and appreciated.
Afterwards, some happy participants showed us their different but seemingly expert techniques in how best to drink from a porran - not a drop spilled!!
Not a drop was spilled!
Don't waste it!
We returned to the hotel and relaxed the rest of the day,
Day 3 – Some, like other mornings, were served British breakfasts, before a leisurely departure by coach, for Capcanes. There, Sandra, our splendid, entertaining and, ever so slightly flirtacious guide, explained the fascinating story of the Celler de Capcanes. In 1995, eighty three families placed all their possessions as guarantee for a substantial bank loan in response from a request from the Jewish community of Barcelona to produce Kosher Wines. This demanded new equipment and new processes under very controlled conditions, which has enabled them to produce very good ‘world class’ wines The loan has been repaid already. These wines score between 86 and 90 points in the Penin Guide.
Sandra
After our tasting of three wines, it was obvious that there would be many purchases. Our placid, friendly and accommodating driver did not even emit a groan when the coach, now noticeably closer to the road surface, was filled.
We returned to the hotel, some taking advantage of a guided tour to the lead sulphide Eugenia mines of Bellmunt del Priorat. These were the largest and most important in the area. With 14 kilometres of galleries The site was opened especially for the group, and the museum, opened only a couple of years ago as a heritage site, proved fascinating. Rachel, the willing guide, was an informed and interesting fund of knowledge of its history. We donned hard hats, walked down to the first ‘floor’ with its caves and chambers, and discovered how the lead ore was extracted with only hand tools and dynamite. There were 20 levels in all, but only the first and second now remain above water due to the proximity of the nearby River Siurana. One and a half hours well spent.
Outside Sulphide Eugenia Mines
Immediately we returned to Falset, Rachel opened the new museum in the castle towers above the town – dedicated to Falset, the capital town of Montsant. The region is being marketed and promoted seriously and has a long and fascinating history involving Romans, Moors, the Spanish Civil War (where a big battle was fought in the nearby mountains) and Christianity.
Prior to the evening meal, we had aperitives at the hotel, and Gaby and Tim were presented with gifts from party members (who had been secretly listening and noting their favourite wines throughout the tour),and ,on behalf of all members of the group, Rod spoke about how much we had all appreciated an excellently organised and perfectly paced wine tour.
We walked to Restaurant Quinoa for an imaginative, relaxed and enjoyable dinner.
Our final morning. At Hostal Sport was a leisurely departure, on time, as always, to visit Bodega Joan d’Anguera run by two young brothers Josep and Joan, as new generation viticultures. Their motto “Grapes are born from the soil, Wine is created with hands and wisdom” Their father, recently deceased, planned the expansion of the vineyard, and his two sons, with their mother, Merce, (who also finds time to teach part time), now produce wines served in Barcelona at the best restaurants (regularly used by the Barcelona soccer team). They have four estates and their wines are named after each. Each part of the old buildings, and the newer extensions have character and pride. They are looking to the future of their market within the region rather than abroad. We tasted Planella – from 100 year old vines and turned into “purple, chocolate or cherry which has a spicy finish” wine at 7.5 euros and Finca L’Argata, priced at 12 euros, also with grenache, syrah and cabernet sauvignon, but without mazuelo. Some considered this bodega, in a beautiful setting, with the enthusiasm of the brothers, and the quality of the wines very special – and, yes, lots of purchases followed!
Tim, Gaby Josep and Joan at the bodega
Our driver knew that this was our final visit to the local wineries and showed us his patience by cheerfully accepting all – Sandy Fawle did a great job in listing wines bought from each bodega and so enabling the decanting of the cases from the boot of the coach at the end of the tour to be well organised. Well over 150 euros was spent by each person on average, which gives a strong indication of our enjoyment of Montsant wines and how well we rated them.
Thanks are due to Paul, in charge of the CBWS sound system, which he carried to all the bodegas and was invaluable as everyone of the forty two members of the group could hear the speakers clearly. It will now be part of all future tours.
We felt we had captured a little of the essence of the Montsant region, found it fascinating, and would like to return. Our driver was equally impressed and decided he was taking his family to the region this summer.
Our return to Javea was even a little before the expected arrival time, but by the time the copious cases of wine had been collected by everyone, again under Sandy’s watchful eyes, the timing as shown in the itinerary was impeccable.
Can our tour leaders better this trip? A tough task. Where next?
The Party outside Bodega Joan d’Anguera.before our return
Following are some useful links to websites and e-mail contacts.
Hostal Sport or e-mail to Hostal Sport
Etim or e-mail to Etim
Celler Laurona or e-mail to Celler Laurona
Celler Capcanes
or e-mail to Orcella
Cellers Joanguera
or e-mail to Mines Bell Munt
Domontsant or e-mail to Domontsant
Report by Rod Anderton
Montsant
In the Province of Tarragona, Catalonia within the wine D.O. of Priorat is Montsant where on 9th November 2001 a new D.O. was born. Grapes grown on the hills and mountains of this beautiful and fertile land are arguably the best in the world. The grapes take on the flavours of wild herbs and cherries, some of the vines are one hundred years old, their roots reaching up to 25 meters into the ground coming into contact with rocks full of minerals. The wine produced is so dark and rich it is known not as red wine but black wine and has an alcohol content of between 13% and 14%. Until the 1980s Montsant produced only bulk wines that were sold to wine makers in France who used them to enrich their vintages. Now the Priorat are fine wine makers in their own right and producing outstanding quality. Here are five success stories.
Cathedral of Wine
Built in 1919 by local farmers with their own labour, this cooperative is a historical monument designed by Cesar Martinell who was a pupil of Gaudi. The coop has 500 members and produces 1.5 million litres per year. Although some wine is still sold in bulk a young master of wine has introduced a system of high quality wine making and now the wine for bottling is matured in oak barrels.
Celler Laurona
This winery was founded in 1999 by Christopher Cannan in association with René Barbier who directs the wine making, he is also the owner of another a celler in the Priorat. The Guia Peñin has already awarded them 88 and 90 points for their Montsant wines.
Celler Orcella
This is a tiny winery high up in the mountain village of La Figuera. Daniel and his wife Ellena farm the vines and do all the wine making themselves in premises rented from the local cooperative. They produce only 17 to 20 thousand bottles per year . Daniel is passionate about his wine making which is in the manner of the DO Châteaunneuf-du-Pape in France where he learned his skill. He came to the Priorat specially to work with the local Garnacha grape and settled in La Figuera because it has the best conditions in the Priorat for Garnacha.
Celler de Capçanes
Capçanes has a long history of producing wine for bulk sales. In 1933 five families from the village collaborated to form a cooperative that could handle large quantities of grapes economically and efficiently. Over the years it became clear that the grapes they were producing were of such high quality they deserved to be made into superior wine. The impetus for the change came when the Jewish community in Barcelona asked them to produce a kosher wine. This demanded new equipment for a process with strictly controlled conditions. To raise the money to install the equipment the members of the coop (then 50 or so families living in the village) took out a loan and secured it with their homes. This huge commitment has paid off and after 8 years the loan was repaid. Their Kosher wine is number one in the whole world and the best vintage has sold in New York for 100 dollars a bottle. The cellar has adapted the procedures needed for the kosher wine into their other production with stunning results.
Bodegas Joan D’Anguera
These vineyards were planted by family ancestors who settled in Monstant in 1820. Now into the sixth generation brothers Josep and Joan work what they call ‘the yearly miracle of transforming grapes into elegant silky smooth wines’. They are known in Barcelona as an exclusive family bodega and they have been awarded 91 points in the Guia Peñin.
THE WINE OF MONSTANT IS MUCH MORE THAN WINE
It is the history of the people, their hardships and plain hard work that endows personality and perfection. The success story of the new D.O. Monsant is lifting the hearts of its people. The farmers who were once poor now have a bright future and the young are returning from the cities bringing their children back home to their roots. They are very much aware of the debt they owe their fathers for carrying on the traditional vine keeping that has at last turned its rich grapes into vintages of distinction.
Report by Christine Felton
